This post is for the benefit of all those who associate the export of India’s popular culture only with elements such as Bollywood or Indian music, across genres. Long before such exports were ever dreamt of, a more significant aspect of India’s culture was exported to foreign shores. Today, those lands retain and celebrate this aspect in a way that is similar, yet different from India.
The ‘foreign shores’ I speak of, are those of Cambodia and the aspect of culture in question is the Hindu faith and its elements within. Today a Buddhist nation that is increasingly under the influence of China, Cambodia was once a Hindu kingdom. Its Khmer rulers prayed to Hindu gods. The celebrated Angkor Wat too was built as a Hindu shrine, dedicated to Vishnu. The Hindu faith is visible everywhere in Cambodia, ranging from patterns gloriously cut into the walls of temples to motifs found in traditional clothing.
But the one feature of Hinduism that is truly celebrated, albeit in a way that is different from practices in India, is the Ramayana. The blockbuster Hindu epic finds its scenes depicted in the Angkor Wat, with an entire gallery dedicated to scenes from its depths. Demons and monkeys fight each other in an incredible showcase of a mythological battlefield. Warriors advance towards each other on chariots. A multi-armed Ravana on his chariot advances into the battle. Other Hindu signs are everywhere in the Angkor, from a gallery depicting the Mahabharata to one which showcases the churning of the ocean by gods and demons.
And it goes beyond the Angkor Wat. Numerous temples were built as Hindu shrines. Outside the city of Siem Reap lies Kbal Spean, where hundreds of Shiv lingas are depicted. Among them is a rock which has a Trimurti carved on it. Another showcases Vishnu on Sheshnag. Then there is Banteay Srei, where several seated monkey figures guard a temple.
But the presence of the Ramayana in Cambodia today goes beyond inanimate carvings in temples. It is a living tradition. The epic here is called the Reamker. The story is broadly that of the Ramayana, plus a few delightful changes. Several names of characters change. Rama is known as Phreah Ream, Sita as Neang Seda, Laxman as Preah Leak. The three are sent into exile with one of Rama’s stepmothers seeking to get her son crowned as King. Neang Seda is abducted in the forest and the two brothers ally with Sukreep (Sugreeva) to defeat the demon army of Lanka to get her back. Ravana is Krong Reap, the ten-headed king of Lanka.
Now for the big twist. In India, Hanuman is revered and also regarded as the epitome of celibacy. In the Reamker, Hanuman was directing his monkey army to build a bridge of stones to Lanka. He realized that mermaids were stealing the stones. He decides to capture the mermaid princess, Sovanna Maccha, and teach her a lesson. The result of all this is that in the process, Hanuman falls in love with the mermaid princess and marries her, later having a son called Mudchanu. So much for the bachelor boy theory!
This love story forms the highlight to the dance form which the Reamker lends itself to. This is a classical dance drama, with all the characters wearing masks. Trust, loyalty, love and revenge are all depicted as vividly as in India’s Ram Leelas. This is a powerful symbol of Cambodia’s cultural affinity with India that no other country can match.
In another equally important symbol, our own Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has been working at conserving several Cambodian heritage sites. Soft power in another form.